The Handbook of Fashion Studies identifies an innovative spectrum of thematic approaches, key strands and interdisciplinary concepts that continue to push forward the boundaries of fashion studies. The book is divided into seven sections: Fashion, Identity and Difference; Spaces of Fashion; Fashion and Materiality; Fashion, Agency and Policy; Science, Technology and New fashion; Fashion and Time and, Sustainable Fashion in a Globalised world. Each section consists of approximately four essays authored by established researchers in the field from the UK, USA, Netherlands, Sweden, Canada and Australia. The essays are written by international subject specialists who each engage with their section's theme in the light of their own discipline and provide clear case-studies to further knowledge on fashion. This consistency provides clarity and permits comparative analysis. The handbook will be essential reading for students of fashion as well as professionals in the industry.
Containing 2,729 entries, Kevin L. Seligman’s bibliography concentrates on books, manuals, journals, and catalogs covering a wide range of sartorial approaches over nearly five hundred years. After a historical overview, Seligman approaches his subject chronologically, listing items by century through 1799, then by decade. In this section, he deals with works on flat patterning, draping, grading, and tailoring techniques as well as on such related topics as accessories, armor, civil costumes, clerical costumes, dressmakers’ systems, fur, gloves, leather, military uniforms, and undergarments. Seligman then devotes a section to those American and English journals published for the professional tailor and dressmaker. Here, too, he includes the related areas of fur and undergarments. A section devoted to journal articles features selected articles from costume- and noncostumerelated professional journals and periodicals. The author breaks these articles down into three categories: American, English, and other. Seligman then devotes separate sections to other related areas, providing alphabetical listings of books and professional journals for costume and dance, dolls, folk and national dress, footwear, millinery, and wigmaking and hair. A section devoted to commercial pattern companies, periodicals, and catalogs is followed by an appendix covering pattern companies, publishers, and publications. In addition to full bibliographic notation, Seligman provides a library call number and library location if that information is available. The majority of the listings are annotated. Each listing is coded for identification and cross-referencing. An author index, a title index, a subject index, and a chronological index will guide readers to the material they want. Seligman’s historical review of the development of publications on the sartorial arts, professional journals, and the commercial paper pattern industry puts the bibliographical material into context. An appendix provides a cross-reference guide for research on American and English pattern companies, publishers, and publications. Given the size and scope of the bibliography, there is no other reference work even remotely like it.
The Voice of Fashion contains a comprehensive selection of women's styles from rare originals of 14 magazines published from 1900 through 1906. The 79 patterns in this book include afternoon, evening, ball, and wedding gowns; home and maternity wear; suits and blouses for day and business; lingerie; outer coats; and outfits for riding, golf, and other sports. Each pattern has a fashion plate, plus instructions for drafting and assembly. Additional fashion columns and plates supplement the information on fabrics, trims, and construction. A substantial glossary explains period fabric names and dressmaking terms. The patterns can be enlarged either by projection, or by drafting with the Diamond Cutting System used with the original magazines.
"She is the most wonderfully inventive and brilliantly talented designer" Dame Judi Dench on Clancy. Deirdre Clancy is one of the most experienced and accomplished costume designers in the business. In this book, she gives her inside knowledge of designing for stage and screen, which includes television, film, theatre and opera. She includes a brief illustrated history of costume design - from the Greeks to Lady Gaga - an invaluable guide for students and current designers. Part Two takes the reader through the design process: how you go about doing it, and the different strands of costume design - from contemporary clothes through to period costume, how to communicate with the audience, designing on paper and with Photoshop or on an iPad and how to share and communicate your ideas and well as mood boards and collages for inspiration. Part Three is about the world of costume design - what it involves and how to get into the field, who does what and the differences between working for stage and screen productions. Clancy advises on budgets and improvisation and covers all the practicalities and behind-the-scenes tips. Part Four looks at period costume from the Dark Ages up to the twentieth century, encompassing authenticity and feasibility. Finally, Part Five looks at individual case studies in depth, including opera and Shakespeare productions. Packed with great drawings and case studies, this is an essential book for any student or professional costume designer looking for additional inside advice. Whether you are a designer for the stage or screen, this book has something new for you with advice from one of the best in the business.
Business & Economics by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks
Pattern Design: Fundamentals is an ideal book for beginners to the field of fashion design as well as self-guided learners. Pattern Design: Fundamentals covers the basics of pattern making, terminology and drafting concepts. This book is different than all other drafting books of its kind. This drafting book combines knowledge of drafting with sewing and construction. The best way to understand how patterns are drafted is to understand how the drafts are constructed, why certain pattern markings are used and in what order a pattern should be constructed. Understanding the construction, solidifies one’s drafting knowledge, connecting the dots of two-dimensional drafting to the three-dimensional finished garment. Pattern Design was developed by designer and educator Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks. Fairbanks years of instructing at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising coupled with her years running her own design and sewing studio, make for the ideal combination of teaching to the visual and self-guided learner. Chapters 1 and 2 introduce you to the tools, terms and pattern markings, including fabrics used, grainlines of patterns and the grain of a fabric. You will create a simple pattern with all appropriate markings from an unaltered sloper and learn each part of all slopers used throughout the book. In the first section, “Shape,” Pattern Design walks you through manipulating darts with the pivot and slash and spread methods, creating pleats, tucks and gathers. Each chapter details the basics of construction in order to complete each exercise fully and utilizes several different slopers to show how each concept can be translated to different garment types. Section two, “Line,” covers style lines (also called seam lines) and combines style lines with design elements from the “Shape” section. The third section, “Details,” includes beginner design detail concepts such as pockets, extensions, collars and banding. Pocket exercises include patch pockets, in-seam pockets and inset pockets. Extensions for buttons and placket for blouses are also demonstrated. The banding chapter covers simple waistbands and sleeve cuffs. The forth and final section covers “Finishes.” Finishes include facings, zipper insertion and basic hemming. Pattern Design: Fundamentals covers the material that most fashion design students learn in their first year of schooling. The book is an ideal guide for self-learners or for classroom instruction.
Classic 1901 guide to cutting ladies' tailor-made clothing includes patterns and detailed instructions for creating over 60 garments and parts of wearing apparel: leg-o-mutton sleeves, broad collars, military cape, knickerbockers, bloomers, opera cloak, riding breeches, and much more. The perfect reference for recreating vintage clothing for costume parties and theatrical productions.