"Traces the American silk industry, once the world's largest, through case studies of the Nonotuck (Northampton, Massachusetts), Haskell (Westbrook, Maine), and Mallinson (New York and Pennsylvania) silk companies. Examines entrepreneurs as well as history of technology and products from sewing-machine thread to mass-produced plain and high-fashion silks"--Provided by publisher.
There has been a growing acceptance that food has an important role in establishing and structuring social and kin relations in Southeast Asian societies. This volume demonstrates that within all of them the feeding relationship is fundamental to the establishment and the nature of relations within generations and between generations.
In recent years, archaeological textile research has undergone a major expansion in scope. Once primarily concerned with the simple description of fabrics, basketry, and cordage, textile researchers now routinely employ these highly perishable artifacts as windows into ancient cultural systems, using theoretical modeling, stylistic and structural analysis, and cutting-edge analytical technology to explore issues of production, exchange, ethnic identity, and social status. Beyond Cloth and Cordage is an overview of current research on New World archaeological fabrics. It demonstrates that textile data is a unique means of addressing questions of broad anthropological interest, as well as problems difficult if not impossible to resolve by other means. Contributing authors include senior experts and others whose work is breaking new ground in a variety of topics. Encompassing both method and theory, these include the recovery and care of textile remains, microanalytical methods, models of production and exchange, and inferences regarding social status, behavior, and ethnicity. The broad geographical scope includes case studies from northeastern North America, the Great Basin, the American Southwest, Mesoamerica, and Andean South America.
The Zuni are a Southwestern people whose origins have long intrigued anthropologists. This volume presents fresh approaches to that question from both anthropological and traditional perspectives, exploring the origins of the tribe and the influences that have affected their way of life. Utilizing macro-regional approaches, it brings together many decades of research in the Zuni and Mogollon areas, incorporating archaeological evidence, environmental data, and linguistic analyses to propose new links among early Southwestern peoples. The findings reported here postulate the differentiation of the Zuni language at least 7,000 to 8,000 years ago, following the initial peopling of the hemisphere, and both formulate and test the hypothesis that many Mogollon populations were Zunian speakers. Some of the contributions situate Zuni within the developmental context of Southwestern societies from Paleoindian to Mogollon. Others test the Mogollon-Zuni hypothesis by searching for contrasts between these and neighboring peoples and tracing these contrasts through macro-regional analyses of environments, sites, pottery, basketry, and rock art. Several studies of late prehistoric and protohistoric settlement systems in the Zuni area then express more cautious views on the Mogollon connection and present insights from Zuni traditional history and cultural geography. Two internationally known scholars then critique the essays, and the editors present a new research design for pursuing the question of Zuni origins. By taking stock and synthesizing what is currently known about the origins of the Zuni language and the development of modern Zuni culture, Zuni Origins is the only volume to address this subject with such a breadth of data and interpretations. It will prove invaluable to archaeologists working throughout the North American Southwest as well as to others struggling with issues of ethnicity, migration, incipient agriculture, and linguistic origins. CONTENTS Foreword by William H. Doelle Preface: Constructing and Refining a Research Design for the Study of Zuni Origins David A. Gregory and David R. Wilcox Acknowledgments Part I Large-Scale Contexts for the Study of Zuni Origins: Language, Culture, and Environment 1. Introduction: The Structure of Anthropological Inquiry into Zuni Origins David R. Wilcox and David A. Gregory 2. Prehistoric Cultural and Linguistic Patterns in the Southwest since 5 BC Cynthia Irwin Williams (1967) 3. The Zuni Language in Southwestern Areal Context Jane H. Hill 4. Archaeological Concepts for Assessing Mogollon-Zuni Connections Jeffery J. Clark 5. The Environmental Context of Linguistic Differentiation and Other Cultural Developments in the Prehistoric Southwest David A. Gregory and Fred L. Nials 6. Zuni-Area Paleoenvironment Jeffrey S. Dean Part II Placing Zuni in the Development of Southwestern Societies: From Paleoindian to Mogollon 7. The Archaic Origins of the Zuni: Preliminary Explorations R. G. Matson 8. Zuni Emergent Agriculture: Economic Strategies and the Origins of Zuni Jonathan E. Damp 9. A Mogollon-Zuni Hypothesis: Paul Sidney Martin and John B. RinaldoÕs Formulation David A. Gregory 10. Adaptation of Man to the Mountains: Revising the Mogollon Concept David A. Gregory and David R. Wilcox (1999) 11. Mogollon Trajectories and Divergences Michael W. Diehl Part III Zuni in the Puebloan World: Mogollon-Zuni Connections 12. Zuni in the Puebloan and Southwestern Worlds David R. Wilcox, David A. Gregory, and J. Brett Hill 13. A Regional Perspective on Ceramics and Zuni Identity, AD 200--1630 Barbara J. Mills 14. Mogollon Pottery Production and Exchange C. Dean Wilson 15. R
A comprehensive analysis of European craft guilds through eight centuries of economic history Guilds ruled many crafts and trades from the Middle Ages to the Industrial Revolution, and have always attracted debate and controversy. They were sometimes viewed as efficient institutions that guaranteed quality and skills. But they also excluded competitors, manipulated markets, and blocked innovations. Did the benefits of guilds outweigh their costs? Analyzing thousands of guilds that dominated European economies from 1000 to 1880, The European Guilds uses vivid examples and clear economic reasoning to answer that question. Sheilagh Ogilvie’s book features the voices of honourable guild masters, underpaid journeymen, exploited apprentices, shady officials, and outraged customers, and follows the stories of the “vile encroachers”—women, migrants, Jews, gypsies, bastards, and many others—desperate to work but hunted down by the guilds as illicit competitors. She investigates the benefits of guilds but also shines a light on their dark side. Guilds sometimes provided important services, but they also manipulated markets to profit their members. They regulated quality but prevented poor consumers from buying goods cheaply. They fostered work skills but denied apprenticeships to outsiders. They transmitted useful techniques but blocked innovations that posed a threat. Guilds existed widely not because they corrected market failures or served the common good but because they benefited two powerful groups—guild members and political elites. Exploring guilds’ inner workings across eight centuries, The European Guilds shows how privileged institutions and exclusive networks shape the wider economy—for good or ill.
This book draws together the records from the excavations in the area of the Meroitic temple complex at Qasr Ibrim that took place mainly in the 1970s. This is the only major temple complex in Lower Nubia excavated in modern times. This volume provides an account of the excavations, as well as studies of the temple's painted decoration, the numerous graffiti on its walls and floors, and its fixtures and fittings, including several monumental Meroitic stelae. It highlights the role of the temple as a point of contact between Roman Egypt and the Meroitic Sudanese state.
Everywhere around the world, people make daily decisions about what to wear or how to dress. The Visible Self, 3rd Edition, presents a systematic approach to analyzing daily rituals that we all share—not simply the act of putting on clothing, but also the method of cleansing the body and adorning it. Using Western and non-Western examples, the authors take a three-pronged approach to understanding dress across cultures, uncovering its relationship to human beings as biological, aesthetic, and social animals. Readings collected from classic books and academic journals enable students to appreciate the complexity of dress from a multidisciplinary perspective that includes anthropology, sociology, economics, fine arts, and the natural sciences.
This absorbing and disciplinary book examines dress in a broad range of folk cultures from Turkey, Greece, and Slovakia to Norway, Latvia and Lithuania and others. The authors reveal the connection between folk dress and ancient myths, cults and ritual, as well as the communicative aspects of folk dress. It examines how an individual dressed in a certain way is placed within a community and also how a community is defined, whether it be of women, the village, the larger geographic area, or the nation. The intriguing connections between dress and the supernatural beliefs of agrarian communities, as well as the reinvention of such beliefs of agrarian communities as a part of nationalism is discussed. This book represents a significant contribution to the growing body of literature on the cultural meanings of dress, as well as to material culture, anthropology, folklore, art history, ethnohistory, and linguistics.